Cattle drive over the Königssee Lake

A calf is gently pulled ashore on the shores of Schönau am Königssee by one of the boats - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Berchtesgadener Land Tourismus GmbH   



Servus, Grüß Gott und Pfiat di!

Upper Bavaria I experienced so far only between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Allgäu. In the eastern part of Bavaria I did not manage it yet. I knew this part only from narratives and photos of my grandparents, who traveled the Chiemgau and Berchtesgadener Land in the post-war period, the first time in 1953. Even before the big travel boom started in the mountains, My grandparents traveled with their son, so my father, already this great alpine landscape. Each of them with a 125cc DKW under the butt. Ruhpolding was then thanks to Dr. Carl Degener to one of these striking longing destinations of many summer visitors. Therefore, I wore the idea for a long time, these well-known places like Reit im Winkl, Ruhpolding, Prien am Chiemsee, Bad Reichenhall and of course Berchtesgaden to experience for yourself. But also the Salzburger Land, and of course the city of Salzburg itself, was part of my exploration trip. I am very curious about Salzburg, Mozart's birthplace was also on my exploration list. The house in the Getreidegasse is actually almost automatic, as much as Mozart points out in this attractive city. A bit offset, but almost as an extension of the Getreidegasse you could consider the way to Gstättengasse, which really astonished me with their houses built into the rock of the Mönchsberg. As amazed, I watched the trolleybus drivers maneuver the bus through the narrow archways of the Klausen and Gstätt gate.

While strolling through the historic shopping streets I noticed very pleasant, that the shop windows in the baroque old town streets are not so often decorated with the usual junk. Here you can discover interesting designed displays with very individual products. Over the grain and Judengasse you reach the Residenzplatz. Like the famous Mozartkugel, the Fiaker cars are part of the historic cityscape. Directly in front of the archiepiscopal palace, the old residence, the Fiakers start to all the sights of Salzburg. Their hoofbeats echo through the old streets. The hoofbeats seem ubiquitous, even if you do not have the teams right in front of your eyes. In the chaotic traffic around the old town they are unfortunately very out of place. Or is it perhaps rather the reverse, that the modern locomotive scrap behaves quite miserable in this pretty Baroque town? Of course, a view from above on this cultural city should not be missed either. So I fought my bike up a tough climb on the fortified lane to Hohensalzburg. Once at the top you can cycle quite relaxed to Mönchsberg, because up here you are almost always on the same height. So I enjoy the "Museum of Modern Art" a beautiful view of the old town and fortress. But even the ascent behind the shopping street "Linzer Gasse" to the Capuchin Monastery is well worth the effort Here too I am rewarded with a very beautiful old town panorama. From up here with a direct view of the Staatsbrücke, comfortably with food and drink, you can watch the crazy goings on the streets, that has something. Almost exactly below me, in Steingasse, is also the birthplace of Joseph Mohr. On this side of the Salzach, it is especially nice to sunbathe in the sunshine, and many cafes invite you to take a break.

But even at Christmas time, Salzburg is able to enchant. You do not dive into the enchanting sea of lights on the Salzburg Christmas Market, it seems to sparkle and sparkle everywhere. I walk through various gate entrances, meet again and again historic architectural monuments, and everywhere, Christmas lights shine my way and beguiling Christmas scents blow in my nostrils. Finally, on the Mozartplatz, I come across a small ice skating rink with a diverse audience. People of all ages and different nationalities seem to have a lot of fun doing this. Parents watching their kids skating, next to me I hear Spanish, right next to me English. If you can not get enough of the Christmas atmosphere, then the Christmas market at Schloss Hellbrunn is also recommended. Here you dive deeper into a unique Christmas dream world.

Spend time in the Salzburger Land.

Candlelight in the Wolgangsee in front of the hotel 'Im weißen Rößl' - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Christmas in St. Wolfgang - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany Christmas in St. Wolfgang - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Christmas in St. Wolfgang - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany Christmas in St. Wolfgang - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


This tradition continues beyond the city of Salzburg. So only a few kilometers north of the Salzach would be to mention also Oberndorf, where the famous "Silent Night Chapel" stands. Here I come back to Joseph Mohr, whose song "Silent Night, Holy Night" had its world premiere in this chapel. In the museum of the same name, next door, there are various specially designed stamps to buy every Christmas, those with a daily updated stamp represent a nice covering. But also the magnificent scenery of the Wolfgangsee in the Salzkammergut, just 30km east of Salzburg, creates a very special charm, especially at Christmas time. Be it the candlelight inspired giant floating peace lantern, which is floating in front of the famous hotel "Im weißen Rößl" in St. Wolfgang, but also on the way to St. Wolfgang is widely visible across the lake. Last but not least, I come to the conclusion that one single day, for the city of Salzburg alone, not enough to capture the pleasant lifestyle of this region. And also for the many other attractions you should plan a little more time. Anyway, it was a lot of fun for me to explore the city and the surrounding country life by bike.


Evening mood at the Kapuzinerberg - Salzburg, Austria - Weihnachten in St. Wolfgang - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Fiaker in the Schwarzstraße - Salzburg, Austria - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   View of the Salzburg from the south of the old town, Austria - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

By bike through the old town of Salzburg, Austria - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   View Capuchin monastery on the old town, Austria - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

View from the Makartsteg over the Salzach to the Salzburg old town and the fortress Hohensalzburg - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

O-bus ride through the Salzburg Klausentor - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   O-bus ride through the Salzburg Gstättentor - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Built in the rock of the Salzburg monk mountain homes make me amazed - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Built in the rock of the Salzburg monk mountain homes make me amazed  - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart in the Getreidegasse - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The Mozart family lived in this house from 1747 to 1773, at Getreidegasse No. 9. Here her son Wolfgang Amadeus was born on January 27, 1756. Today, the apartment of the Mozart family is a museum in which famous exhibits are shown. Et al you can see his violin, his concert violin, his clavichord, the pianoforte and portraits and letters of the Mozart family. For a total of 26 years, the Mozart family lived on the third floor of the "Hagenauer Haus". The museum was opened on 15 June 1880 by the International Mozart Foundation.

Already as a six-year-old, the "boy" Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart from his father presented in the metropolises of Vienna and Munich as a child prodigy. He played harpsichord, improvised and composed. Mozart's father Leopold was sort of a manager and prepared Wolfgang and his sister Maria Anna for a musical career. They traveled together to Paris, The Hague, through Germany and Italy, where they performed in public.

... huch ... what is staring at me there for a strange face - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


Then it led me further into the Chiemgau. Here I wanted to install a little bit ridiculous idea in my travel plan. I found it very exciting to rediscover the photo opportunities and locations of my father and my grandfather from the 50s. So I tried as possible not only to find the same photo perspectives from back then, but to photograph them again, in order to be able to confront the pictures of then and now. Of course, it teased me to see with my own eyes how the landscape is represented today, or how it changed at that time. And frankly, I was surprised how little things changed in some places, while elsewhere I looked a bit sad at some motifs on the old photos, which I always carried with me as a DIN A4 printout. The course of the road was often almost the same but the traffic has increased a lot. Because sandroads of that time have now become tarred main roads who like to be used as a racetrack. Here are a few examples:

Comparison:   Pictures from the 50s and the present time.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber - The Koboldzeller Steige branches off from Untere Schmiedegasse - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Rothenberg o. d. Tauber"

Rothenburg ob der Tauber - Fountain in Rödergasse - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Rothenburg ob der Tauber - The Koboldzeller Steige branches off from Untere Schmiedegasse - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Bergen is a municipality in the Upper Bavarian district of Traunstein - road from Siegsdorf to Bergen - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Bergen (Chiemgau)"

Bergen, a municipality in the Upper Bavarian district of Traunstein - Hochfellnstraße - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Ruhpolding - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Ruhpolding"

Reit im Winkl - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Reit im Winkl"

Reit im Winkl - then and now - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Experience the different seasons in Chiemgau and Berchtesgadener Land!

In Chiemgau I discovered a very varied landscape. If I still have the weather, then everything is so nice, then the colors start to shine. Especially when the day awakens and the sun slowly expels the fog from the mountain valleys, there are breathtaking plays of light in the mountains.

Play of the sunrays in the Berchtesgaden mountains - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany Romantic, flower-decorated wooden houses in Chiemgau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Chamois in the pack near Saalfelden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Clouds move like a wave over the mountains in Reit im Winkl - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany Staudach-Egerndach awakes in the morning mist - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


The bright green of the meadows, the different shades of gray of the mountains, In addition, the beautifully designed floral arrangements on the balconies of the farmhouses and country houses, everything comes with the sunlight particularly colorful to advantage. And then the grazing cattle on the very steep slope meadows, because I feel seduced immediately in the advertising of bear brand and Milka. In this idyllic home I fell in love with the cows. I see them constantly plucking grasses and herbs and munching, so they can deal with it all day.


Cattle from the Demeter farm Mix in Raiten - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Mann, der schaut ja genauso blöd wie wir ..."   Cattle from the Demeter farm Mix in Raiten - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Verdammt, bin ich fotogen ..."

Cattle from the Demeter farm Mix in Raiten - Kühe beim Abenspaziergang in den heimischen Stall - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Endlich in den Stall, mir platzt gleich der Euter!"   Cattle from the Demeter farm Mix in Raiten - die mögen sich aber - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Kuh, i mog di ..."


They have such a rest away, which seems to be synonymous to me. If you can say something bad to a cow, they are truly loyal souls. Even the farmers do not let anything come to their cows. "If ma says, 'you stupid cow,' that's a very wrong expression. The cattle are g'scheid and sensitive ".


Bernhaupten, a municipality in the Upper Bavarian district of Traunstein - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany"Himme, Oarsch und Zwirn, must du ma dauernd an den Haxn hängn, schleich di endli"


In addition, the clocks here in Chiemgau seem to go a little slower. And so I began to approach and observe everything with a little more inner peace, I let the country life just affect me.


Two generations, the grandparents and the grandchild on a tractor in Bergen, a municipality in the Upper Bavarian district of Traunstein - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


In addition, these incomparable and breathtaking views, here e.g. from the snap chapel at Staudach-Egerndach to the Chiemsee.


View from the Schnappenkapelle at Marquartstein to the Chiemsee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Ludwig II on the motorcycle - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   A view through Ludwig II in the direction of Chiemsee Herreninsel - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

High mountain reservoirs of Kaprun - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

High mountain reservoirs of Kaprun - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

A detour to the high mountain reservoirs of Kaprun was a similar intoxicating experience for my senses.

I am on my way to Berchtesgaden. Even before the village of Ramsau, I'm on the road from the direction of Inzell coming, a panorama awaits me to melt away, a look into the picture book landscape of Antenbichl. A pulsating feeling of anticipation fills me with this magnificent view of these picturesque mountain valleys. When I arrived in Ramsau, I did not have to search long for the famous postcard motif. It is the motif with the bridge over the Ramsauer Ache, and with the parish church of St. Sebastian and the rider Alpe in the background. Because said bridge is usually well frequented to serve for a nice souvenir photo. Will my interest in Berchtesgaden be nourished a bit by his history during National Socialism? Maybe that actually plays a subliminal part with it. The Obersalzberg and Kehlsteinhaus are terms that appear in the media again and again. If it turns out, I will certainly explore these places once. But it is primarily the atmosphere of this landscape that I want to absorb. And of course the Königssee with its famous pilgrimage chapel St. Bartholomew which I know from the old photos of my father and grandfather. Throughout the year, people celebrate their customs here. Even as a city dweller you can love these festivities. How to set up the maypole, which is celebrated very differently in many Bavarian regions. Compared to the Chiemgau, the tree in the Berchtesgadener Land remains rather unadorned, so pretty bare. Admiring glances of the pretty girls are always certain to the lads when raising the tree.

Maibuam setting up at Kohlhiasl!

Die jungen Mädchen beobachten ihre Buben beim Maibaum-Aufstellen in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Raising the Maypole in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The young girls on a treetop at Maypole Posing at the Kohlhiasl in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Raising the Maypole in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Raising the Maypole in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Raising the Maypole in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Raising the Maypole in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Maibaum-Aufstellen beim Kohlhiasl - Berchtesgadener Tourismuszentrale   

International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden!

An event of a special kind is the regular Roßfeld race on Roßfeldstraße since 2013. Already between 1925 and 1928 mountain races with motorcycles and automobiles took place on the steep route from Berchtesgaden to the Obersalzberg. Even Hans Stuck, the father of Hans-Joachim Stuck, drove to the birth of this route. With the energy crisis 1973 came the provisional end for the mountain race and thus also for one of the largest spectator attractions in Berchtesgaden. The event "International Edelweiss Mountain Award Roßfeld Berchtesgaden" was a great success for all concerned, not least thanks to the excellent organization.


International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


All riders had to go to the first day of this rally for registration and technical control. Only then did the driver receive the coveted event sticker and his start number. But not everyone received their stickers immediately. The organizers paid particular attention to the light, that had to work perfectly, and there it really did not work for some of the vintage cars. The drivers had to watch now that they got this mishap quickly fixed. The start number must be clearly visible on the car, the excellently maintained Bugatti T51 by driver Heinz Vogl received the number 2. If the registration procedure was finally over, it could go high in the center of Berchtesgaden to the general marvel. But before it went on the red carpet, the neat Bugatti rolled for safety's sake to the gas pump.


International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Walter Röhrl at the International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Walter Röhrl at the International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


Walter Röhrl, who has once again assumed the role of ambassador, has been tirelessly signing autographs and allowing the innumerable photo wishes to be serenaded. Even motorsport fans did not miss the opportunity to have their own vehicle signed by the champion personally.


Oldtimer buses drive visitors to the Roßfeld during the International Edelweiss Mountain Award Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

View through the cabin of a Mercedes minibus Type 0319 while driving on the Roßfeld during the International Edelweiss Mountain Award Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Peter Ramsauer has a lot of fun driving on the Roßfeld during the International Edelweiss Mountain Award Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany Peter Ramsauer is the patron of the International Edelweiss Mountain Award Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

View through the cabin of the Mercedes minibus type 0319 at the Roßfeld of the International Edelweiss Mountain Prize Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


Also Peter Ramsauer, the patron of these race days, visibly enjoyed the leisurely ride on the Mercedes minibus type 0319. About the pleasant travel with this bus, he said very touched, "These were very modern buses!". Even some passengers were amazed by the comfort and the great view from the panoramic windows of this sometimes 50-year-old vintage buses. These old means of transport still have real charm which one misses with today's objectivity. Also, the view through the rear windows of these old buses on the roaring racing cars revealed this time travel illusion perfectly.


International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany International Edelweiß-Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


I had the honor to travel with the former racing driver Eberhard Mahle once the entire racetrack on the Roßfeld in his Museumsporsche. A fast-paced experience, because driving over 100km / h in the curves that impressed me already.


Below the Watzmann massif, the preparations for the alpine farming season begin.

The icing on the cake of my trip, of course, should be this famous cattle drive across the Königssee, which the alpine farmers compete each year in early May and between mid-September / early October. It is one of the tourist highlights in the Berchtesgadener Land, because only here does the cattle drive over the water.


Thunderstorm over Schönau and Watzmann - Berchtesgadener Alpen - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


A refreshing summer night storm over Oberschönau, with the Watzmann massif in the background, led to this natural spectacle. On the right you can see the maypole at Kohlhiasl. After such a refreshing thunderstorm, one perceives the pleasant smells of grasses and herbs.

The alpine season on the Salet begins - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Die Almsaison auf der Salet beginnt - Berchtesgadener Tourismuszentrale   

Of course, the season starts with the buoyancy in spring. That means, the whole Alm must be brought up to scratch. Over the long winter months (October - May), the alpine hut is virtually deserted. During this time, the sun barely manages to reach over the ridges to reach the mountain pastures. To be on an alp during this time would be a bit uncomfortable and light. For the Almsennerin is now a lot of preparation, they will have to deal with at least a good 5 months uninterrupted alone. During this time, the cows remain in their care. In addition to the self-produced products such as milk and cheese, which are usually produced directly on the alp, the many hikers but also on other drinks such as beer and soda do not have to do without. And some hikers like to strengthen themselves with a mountain gentian.


Proviant trip over the Königssee at the beginning of the season on the Salet alpine hut - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The cows also enjoy this indescribable calm before the start of the season, but also the new freedom on the pastures of the Salet - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

View of the Obersee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


The whole landscape, as here on the Obersee, is now still gently and spread out before me surrounded by a fabulous Stoic peace. At such a moment, it is hard to imagine what is going on here as soon as the season opens on the 1st of May.


The Almsaison on the Salet begins - Berchtesgadener Tourismuszentrale


Hofbrauhaus Berchtesgaden - Bräustüberl - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany
The mayor announces that beer will be brewed on Wednesday, and therefore can not be shit into the stream as of Tuesday.


The time jump is allowed me. We are now in the 1.Oktoberwoche, the alms summer is over, and the love of the national park Almen again back in the anbindestalls bring into the valley be. It promises to give once again Kaiserwetter in the king Ludwig country for the today's day. But now in the early morning, it is 7.30am, the fog is still like a down comforter over the lake. The morning freshness touches my neck and I pull my jacket collar far up. With boats we drive out to the pier "Salet" near the "Saletalm". It is a sublime feeling in this nature gallery, framed by the alpine mountains of the Berchtesgadener National Park, to glide over the Königssee. As if draped by magic, everything around me seems majestically beautiful. The sentence: "Here the world still seems alright" - here it comes alive for me. On the lake I experience a very special silence. A silence that perhaps also attracts the many tourists to the Königssee every year. I let hectic and noise back to land and plunge into an imaginary intermediate realm. It goes past the well-known echo wall, and also the chapel of St. Bartholomew, I can make out from here already as a pinhead-sized point. The elements water, mountains and sky present themselves here as a true symphony for the senses. I would not be averse to believe that the Bavarian King Ludwig II personally had this backdrop built. Starting at the famous St. Bartholomä, the last third of our route comes. The pier "Salet" is our destination. They are right at the other end of the Königssee. Since the Königssee is not passable, the cattle of the alpine farmers must always be brought by boat. In the 19th century, the cattle were still rowed over the Königssee. But for 100 years already, it brings the gentle thrust of engines to certain Landau (transport ships with flat ground and flat approach) in a one-hour drive from the "Salet" to the promenade to Schönau am Königssee. Approximately 8-10 cows can be transported on a boat and must, similar to containers on the container ships, good over the whole boat area available. Only more people can move on the boats, they also seem to feel that the summer resort now adé say must.


Cattle drive at the Salet on the Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Cattle drive at the Salet on the Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Cattle drive at the Salet on the Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Cattle drive at the Salet on the Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


Today, it is the cows of the farmer family Leitner who have to make this elaborate cattle drive from the Fischunkelalm. However, the Almabtrieb is not celebrated here with the Berchtesgadener farmers with as much pomp as elsewhere. Here in the Berchtesgadener Land, the traditional customs are kept high, the animals and the family are in the foreground.


The cattle drive on the Fischunkelalm is over - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


When our boat moored, even the drovers are on their way with their cows. The newborn calves are also present on the mountain pasture. And of course they are very excited because they do not know this whole procedure yet. Suddenly I see a young dairymaid completely immersed in her thoughts, which with her dirndl and her physiognomy in my romanticizing idea of a Bavarian alpine tune just fits perfectly into this picturesque landscape.


A young dairymaid at Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


Like the other drivers, she also drove the cows from Fischunkelalm to Salet am Königssee. Her name is Christina Frangen and she is a farmer with body and soul, as she says herself. On the local elm farm in the Vulkaneifel, which her parents and her sister's family manage together. helps her out every now and then. It is a small dairy farm with its own cheese production. The nature-loving, peasant agriculture corresponds to their ideology. Very early in her the wish germinated to work as a dairy on a pasture. Above all, the simple and original life has particularly irritated her. And so I learn from her an exciting story:

In diesem Jahr hat sie sich einen Kindheitstraum erfüllt. Through her parents, who are enthusiastic mountaineers, she probably got the love for the mountains in the cradle. A whole summer on a mountain pasture may seem romantic and carefree to us, a life as in a Heimatfilm. But it's really hard work and not always funny, here was a bone job waiting for Christina. Not only the animals want to be taken care of, no, even hordes of tourists demand daily for food and drink. The 24-year-old pulls from the end of May to October as a dairy on the Fischunkelalm. The alpine hut, which is only cultivated in the summer months, is located on the Obersee at an elevation of 620 meters and is a popular tourist destination after a Königsseeschifffahrt. But also hikers, who usually hike on to the Steinerne Meer, like to have a snack here. Nestled in an impressive mountain landscape in the heart of the National Park Berchtesgaden, it is also secluded and lonely. Above the Fischunkelalm is the Röthbachfall, with 400m it is the highest waterfall in Germany. The summer of summer starts here when the sun has defeated the snow, then it goes up in the Berchtesgadener country for many Sennerinnen and Senner high. Christina is also expected on time for the alpine upheaval in Berchtesgaden. But until the last minute, she had to tackle vigorously at home. Even if your cooperation is greatly missed for your family especially at harvest time, it was fully behind her decision. Nevertheless, Christina's thoughts will at some moments be with her family, whether they will be able to cope without her in the next few months?

Early in the morning on Koenigssee, in the farthest corner of Bavaria, almost at the Austrian border, a new era begins for her. Only a few hours earlier, on the eve of the alpine upheaval, Christina had become acquainted with the farming family Leitner from Berchtesgaden, for whom she will cultivate the pasture. And of course the 15 cows. She will not be all alone up there, even the farmer's mother, the 74-year-old Cathi, will help. The boat ride over the Königssee is a breathtakingly beautiful moment for her, also for her for the first time. Immediately after arriving at the "Salet" Christina must be able to keep the cows in check until the second load is transferred. She has a bit of respect for the bull, "he looks a bit angry". She still can not really judge his look. The farmer gives her the tip to always have a stick with you to get the necessary respect so the cattle breeders know who the boss is. Then it goes to the Obersee and there on very rough trails right along the lake. while the Fischunkelalm is constantly in sight. The all-terrain Pinzgauer are a very special breed of cattle, as made for the mountains, with the trails seem to have no problems. "I think I have really chosen a beautiful paradise here, I can not imagine it more beautiful." Today, on their first day is still the whole Bavarian extended family. And tomorrow Mr. Leitner is still on site, to work in. After the long winter, there is still much to be done. But then Christina will be up here alone with the farmer Cathi. You will ask, what is a farmer? . A farmer is a no longer active farmer of a farm. She has given her farmhouse and the farm to the younger generation, so to her children or grandchildren. Mostly she still lives in the yard, but in a neighboring house. There is a so-called generational contract, in a farm handover protocol, it is recorded exactly whether and how much the current farmers are doing at discharge , a kind of pension within the family to pay to the former farmer. Or maybe everything is compensated with food and accommodation. This is how the term "farmer-farmer" came into being. That the alpine summer for Christiane will not be a relaxing break, she gets to feel right on her first day. "I have to give up - is not," she was clear from the beginning. She has to be explained a lot, but also show what she understands agriculture. "If only ned of that was baorisch."

In the afternoon, she and family Leitner can finally take a breather. But the very next day, early in the morning at five, if it is still so wonderfully quiet around the Fischunkelalm, She has to collect her cows, milk them, soak the calves and then drive them to the meadows beneath the Röthbach Falls. The water crashes almost vertically down here. Here the animals stay until the evening. After that, the stable has to be cleaned, and before breakfast, the production of cheese and butter is still in progress. "The most beautiful is the morning peace in the cows drive in this stunning landscape and as an encore the beautiful sunrises on Watzmann." The customer review has been automatically translated from German. These are special moments for her, which she enjoys a lot, "... I am only there with my cows". The farmer is satisfied with her, he sees that she understands her craft. In a landscape that could be designed by a painter, it says at any time: first the animals, then the people, that's law here. After about three hours she can then think of breakfast. How was it with my own food? I asked her. "Have you and the Cathi even eaten your own buttered sandwiches and washed them down with the milk they milked?" No, they are supplied with fresh food daily by Bauer Leitner. So her diet was quite varied. There is also a small garden for fresh salad on the pasture. An hour later, as of 10 clock, come the first tourists. How big the rush will be in one day depends on the weather conditions. Now is the time for Christina "Dirndl time" announced. Already on the first opening day, the weather is splendid, a lot of hikers are on the way. On some days of the season, up to 800 tourists and hikers from all over the world arrive. A hiker experiences a lot of nature here. On the alpine pastures, he is not only rewarded with fantastic views in this untouched natural oasis, Here he can also look forward to delicious fresh alpine milk or fortify himself with a snack and a beer for the subsequent mountain tour. In the back of the hut the bread is served - Christina has to serve the guests at the front of the "Gatterl".


The young dairymaid at her work on the Fischunkelalm - SWR - Mensch Leute - Christina's Alpine Dream - An Eifel farmer at Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Photo collage with images of the SWR film crew that Christina accompanied on her alpine adventure.


The timetable of the Königsseeflotte determines Christina's daily mission. When the weather is fine, Christina is in great demand behind her Spartan sales counter, serving almost in the chord. Time to rattle a bit with the hikers, remains as good as ever, this is simply not possible with this mass processing. But as soon as the tourists are gone in the late afternoon, the Almfrieden returns up here and there is an indescribable peace. "It makes me happy when it's just over in the afternoon and calm down again." Such moments compensate for all the stress. At least when the weather plays along. But you can never rely on that here in the mountains. It remains after this exhausting management little leisure to enjoy this surrounded her postcard idyll. Because now is the dear cattle turn. But before that, the fire for cheese production has to be kindled. It takes 2 to 3 hours for the so-called Schüsselkas to develop from the broken milk in the kettle above the open fire. It has always been a long and exhausting day, always had to be done by hand. Fifty years ago, there was neither electricity nor light in the Kaser. Now Christina has to finally get the cows, because it is getting dark in the national park. And the cows like to be spread out here. This can take a while.
But the main thing all 7 dairy cows are there, because every liter of milk is needed. It is the most precious commodity here on the Alm. She counts the cows, she still has to look for one. All her cows have a name and eventually she has also discovered "edelweiss". It has dropped far to the top. Since 5 o'clock in the morning Christina is already on her feet. Now only make the cheese, the Schüsselkas for the tourists. This is a lean cheese, a very special specialty in Berchtesgadener Land. For this, the milk is heated in the kettle, mixed with rennet and the resulting curd stirred. Then the mass is fished out with a large cloth and pressed into a mold. In this pressing the whey comes out. "Kas made it himself, it's only on the mountain pasture. On a sandwich is 'the guats' "I could hear a dairy woman say now. Now, after more than 13 hours on her feet, Christina can relax and enjoy this wonderful place. How does she live as a dairymaid on a mountain pasture? The Fischunkelalm is quite large and Christina and Cathi each have their own room, which are also very comfortable. After a busy day Christina can always fall asleep very well in the evening. Especially the cow bells, which always ring somewhere, make it easier for her to fall asleep.
July is a bit depressing this year, it rains a lot. At that time, she not only felt the mountains like 4 walls around her, no, the (cloud) ceiling also seemed to fall on her head. She did not think that would be the way to do it. Nevertheless, she has not regretted a single day. Mid-August is then high season on the Fischunkelalm. Whole hordes of hikers crave the delicious breads and what to drink. The stream of visitors does not tear off anymore. Especially the Asians are very hot on freshly milked cow's milk, although they usually do not get them. Christina is really in stress, although the farmer and Cathi's grandson even help on some of these days. But there is always something to smile about - as e.g. A mum gives her bottle for the baby to Christina with the request if she could not even put them in the microwave.
And finally, Christina's last day comes on the Fischunkelalm. Cool it has become, the sun is now from 13 clock behind the mountains disappeared. Despite Almabtrieb the next day is everything as always. Many hikers, a lot of work. The last few weeks have taken up Christina's powers. The evening before the deciding day, when the visitors are gone and the cows are milked, Christina can enjoy the pasture one last time alone and in peace. Because tomorrow morning, at 4 o'clock, the night is over for her. Then it's finally "almsummer". The Almabtrieb also rings in the end of the season of the Fischunkelalm and so are again farmer Hans Leitner and his drivers on the spot. But before the cattle drive really starts, every cow gets a very special bell around its neck. This custom and the bells have always been passed on to the next generation in families. Christina gave her own bell from her parents, especially for the big day and her especially heartfelt cow "Wanda".


The famous cowbells, which are always passed on within the peasant families to the next younger generation - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


The older cows know instinctively where it is going again and seem little pleased. Up to the loading station Salet am Koenigssee, the 15 cows must first be driven over the difficult walkways and trails. Keeping the cows together costs everyone some trouble. And it gets harder to get them to the so-called Landauer. And then there are these unloved press people, who do not seem to the cows quite well with their many strange devices in front of their heads. Frightfully they take off and then have to be caught again with difficulty. Christina also runs and tries to move the cows in the rough terrain in the direction of the jetty. But gradually they also manage the last cow on the boat.


Cattle drive at the Saletalm - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   The cows are brought on so-called landauern over the Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


Jetzt nur noch sicher über den Königssee kommen. So treten die Kühe und ihre Sennerin die Bootsfahrt inmitten dieser wunderschönen Landschaft an. Das noch ein letztes Mal bewußt genießen. Das Wasser ist kristallklar, in Ufernähe kann man bis auf den Grund sehen, und alles um uns herum atmet in einem kraftvollen dunkelgrün. Es ist die letzte Etappe - dann ist der Almsommer geschafft. Leicht fällt Christina der Abschied nicht.


Passing the St. Bartholomä pilgrimage church on Königssee- Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Passing by the echo wall at Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


Only when every animal has reached the dock "Seelände" safely and has soil under the hooves again, only then the summer of summer has been happy. And the famous "Aufkranzen" can start, the animals are decorated. Since the 24th of August, the Bartholomew's Day, traditionally the binding of the "Fuikln" has begun. The Fuikl and the Latsch'n Boschn, these are the traditional head or royal jewelry with which each cow is decorated. A Fuikl is the more colorful and elaborate of the two headdress variants. Curved fir and spruce branches are artfully bound to several spherical crowns and elaborately with innumerable, handcrafted roses and stars decorated with colored Schaberbandln (wood shavings). For a Fuikl can ever be spent up to 60 hours. A Latsch'n Boschn, a mountain pine branch, comes with far fewer roses and stars and is chosen for the young.


Producing the Fuikl - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   Producing the Fuikl - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Producing the Fuikl - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Producing the Fuikl - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

garlanding the cows at the Königssee in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   garlanding the cows at the Königssee in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


The livestock may only be festively decorated for the Almabtrieb, if no "uncleanliness", that is, no misfortune has happened. If a farmer once had a dead calf born on the pasture, or if a family member died, then nothing is left to adorn.


The parents are already waiting for their Almsennerin - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   The young dairymaid and her parents meet again after 4 months and greet each other warmly - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


And finally, the last two Landau come along with the dairymaid Christina on the Königsseer Promenade. Humans and animals have all survived the summer of summer, thank God. Christina is visibly irritated by the many tourists who are already waiting for the adornment of the critters. The loneliness in the mountains has already left its mark. Even her parents have come specially from the Eifel and they are already eagerly awaiting them. Now they can finally embrace each other and Christina slowly realizes that the summer of summer is finally over. At this moment all the hardships and hardships of the past few months have been blown away. There is already joy at home, but even the farewell hurts a little. There's a bit of melancholy in her. The many great and unique nature experiences with their unpredictable weather events will remain a nice memory. The sun has finally conquered the morning mist and the announced imperial weather with a deep blue sky comes to the fore. Now the Fuikl shine on the heads of the cows in the most beautiful colors.


garlanding the cows at the Königssee in Berchtesgaden - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The young dairymaid Christina looks once again eagerly in the direction of the Fischunkelalm, on which she spent 4 months  - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   The young dairymaid with the daughters of the farmer - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The cows are driven through the Seestraße in Schönau am Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


"I'm proud to take my decorated herd home. After 4 months, the animals have grown very close to my heart. " Under the impressive ringing of the big cow bells, which say goodbye to the summer like holiday bells, The cows now leave with the dairymaid and the drivers sail through Seelände through the Seestraße, the shopping street of Schönau. It then goes a bit further on the highway to the Leitner court. There, the animals will spend their winter break.

This is where Christina's summer adventure ends.

The Berchtesgaden farmers treat their cows with a lot of respect - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


I liked to watch how much love and respect the farmers treat their cows, lovingly stroke them over their foreheads. At first I did not even notice that a SWR TV crew was sitting next to me in the boat. They sporadically accompanied Christina's "Almtraum" throughout the 4 months. From the cattle uplift in May through the time of the biggest onslaught of hikers to today's Almabtrieb, they have captured the special moments and made a 30 minute broadcast for the SWR broadcast series "Mensch Leute".


The SWR film team around Christian Hattesen is filming the young Christina Frangen in Schönau am Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The end of an Almabtriebes - The cowbells, which now have your peace, or better - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


The discarded cowbells are now even for me as a symbol of the end of an eventful alpine summer, which is celebrated here in the background duly. Because even for me now very special impressions come to an end. After the whole spectacle has dissolved quite gradually here at Königssee, similar to the morning mist, the reality slowly starts to flow in me again. For a few minutes I let this beautiful experience still affect me and watch the mountains around me. I look after the individual Jennerbahn gondolas and imagine what a great view I would have from up there. In any case, there are many opportunities to get into the natural beauty of the National Park of Berchtesgaden and enjoy indescribable panoramic views.

Der Film zu der Geschichte:

Christina s Alm dream - Eine Eifelbäuerin am Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Once on the Watzmann

From my window I could look directly at the greenstone and the Watzmann massif. And so I was constantly thinking, I have to go up there too. So on the Watzmann. Because the greenstone. The climb to the greenstone with its almost 1300m height I climbed to practice a few times. Although there are no difficulty levels to master here, for me city dwellers it was still a conditional challenge. But after the third Ascension I noticed so slowly, that I did not stumble anymore, when I clumsily bent on roots or loosely lying stones with my shoe. I felt an always better body feeling. I also tried the practice via ferrata Hanauer Stein in Unterschönau. For that I even put on a via ferrata set. But that was not such a big challenge for me, as I first thought.

Looking north to Ramsau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Marktschellenberger Kirtag

Marktschellenberger Kirtag - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Marktschellenberger Kirtag - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Marktschellenberger Kirtag - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Die Weihnachtsschützen beim Christkindlanschießen Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Marktschellenberger Kirtag - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Marktschellenberger Kirtag - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


The Christkindl shot in Oberschönau am Königssee

The Christmas shooters in Ober-Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   The Christmas shooters in Ober-Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The Christmas shooters in Ober-Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The Christmas shooters in Ober-Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany   The Christmas shooters in Ober-Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

On the 24th of December each year, the beautiful custom of the 14 Christmas Sagittarius Clubs in the Berchtesgadener Tal will take place from the 5 communities. Schönau, Königssee, Bischofswiesen, Berchtesgaden and Marktschellenberg. Punctually at 15 o'clock the handguns, Handböller and Schaftböller, all rifle clubs loaded and shot down following shot sequence:
3 X shoot all shooters at the same time,
3 X in turn each shooter individually,
3 x rapid-fire, and finally again
3x all at the same time.

Up to 175 Schoenauer Weihnachtsschützen in number arrive on the large meadow Bodnerlehen and equip their small arms. It becomes the Christ child oba hoin (I think that's what it means among the locals), Also called Christkindlanschießen, and at the same time also the evil spirits are to be expelled. In any case, the waiting for the Christ Child or Santa will be much more entertaining. But above all, all the residents come together again and wish a Merry Christmas. As a city dweller, I was very impressed by this custom and the good mood of everyone involved.


The Christmas Mass shooting on the Unterstein of Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

The Christmas Mass shooting on the Unterstein of Schönau - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


This is what it looks like from the street, when at 23:30 the Mettenschießen to Christmette on the Hanauerstein begins. This had in earlier times announced the time to people in the countryside, or it's time to visit the Midnight Christmas Mass. Again, there are about 100 shooters who have set up around the Schützenkaser on the "Hanauerstoa". After the Christmas Mass in the "Maria unterm Stein" (Parish of Unterstein), the Weisenbläser perform their serenade in front of the Schützenkaser with beautiful Bengal firelight. And then it is only the Schönau shooters who shoot their guns in a slightly shorter shot-off ritual, thereby finally ringing in the night's sleep.


Bob Worldcup Königssee 2016 - Ice Arena Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany

Rodel Worldcup am Königssee - Welcome in der Ice Arena Königssee - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany


The famous postcard motif of Ramsau - View of the parish church of St. Sebastian (It was built in 1512 under Prince-Provost Gregor Rainer, the consecration of the altar took place in 1518) and the riders Alpe in the background - Jörg Nitzsche Hamburg Germany



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