Upper Bavaria, I had always traveled only between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Allgäu. In the eastern part of Bavaria so I'm not yet penetrated.
This part I previously knew only from stories and photos of my father, who has traveled the Chiemgau and Berchtesgaden already in the postwar period, the first time 1953rd
Even before the great travel boom began in the mountains, Ruhpolding was time to one of these distinctive dream destinations of many summer visitors,
my father traveled with his parents, each with a 125 DKW between the legs, already this great Alpine landscape. Therefore buzzing for some time the idea around in my head this
renowned places like Reit im Winkl, Ruhpolding, Prien am Chiemsee, Bad Reichenhall and Berchtesgaden also to experience for yourself.
But the Salzburg, and of course Salzburg itself, should not be neglected.
In the city I'm very excited, because Mozart's birthplace was on my exploration list.
On this one comes actually almost automatically, because the paths through the historic streets of the city of Mozart lead me sometime in the Getreidegasse.
It is visually almost an extension of Gstättengasse which makes their built into the rock of the Mönchberg houses really for amazement.
Likewise amazement I watched as the trolleybuses to squeeze through the narrow arches of Klausen and the Gstättentors.
But also the city of Salzburg, this tradition continues. So just a few kilometers north would the Salzach up also Oberndorf to mention where the - here I return to Joseph Mohr, whose song "Silent Night" premiered here experienced - famous "Silent Night Chapel" is. In the same Museum, next door, there is for every Christmas several specially designed stamps to buy, which is provided with a daily topical stamp representing a nice Andecken. But the grandiose scenery of Lake Wolfgang in the Salzkammergut, just 30km east of Salzburg, gets especially at Christmas again its unique appeal. Be it a candlelit lantern modeled huge floating peace light lantern that is "The White Horse Inn" floating in front of the famous Hotel in St. Wolfgang, but already on the way to St. Wolfgang is visible far over the lake. Last but not least I come to the summary that a single day, just for the city of Salzburg, is insufficient to the pleasant lifestyle of this region to detect correctly. And also for the many attractions one should allow a little more time. Mir has certainly done much fun the city and the surrounding her country life to explore it by bike.
The Mozart family lived from 1747 to 1773 in this Getreidegasse no. 9,.
Here her son Wolfgang Amadeus was born on 27 January 1756th
Today the apartment of the Mozart family is a museum where famous exhibits are displayed.
One can see here including his childhood violin, his concert violin, his clavichord,
the pianoforte, portraits and correspondence of the Mozart family.
A total of 26 years the family lived Mozart on the third floor of the "Hagenauer House".
The museum was opened already on 15 June 1880 by the International Mozart Foundation.
Already at age six was the "boy" Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart from his father presented as a child prodigy in the cities of Vienna and Munich. He played the harpsichord, improvised and composed. Mozart's father Leopold prepared Wolfgang and his sister Maria Anna targeted preparation for a career in music. They traveled together to Paris, The Hague, by Germany and Italy, where they publicly concerted.
But then we went on in the Chiemgau. Here I wanted to CTS installing even a little spleenige idea in my itinerary with. I found it very exciting to rediscover the photo opportunities and locations of my father and grandfather of the '50s. So I tried the same possible photo opportunity at that time to find again to photograph them again, and then to put the photos from then and now over. But of course appealed to me even just once to see with their own eyes how the landscape is today, or has changed. And frankly I was been surprised how little has changed in some places, as I would any place designs something sadly looked again at the old photos I as DIN A4 printout always carried with me. The street is indeed often remained virtually unchanged but the traffic has increased badly. For by that time sand roads are paved main roads now become, which are often used as a race track. Here come some examples:
In Chiemgau I discover a very varied landscape. If this is still shining the sun from a blue-Bavarian sky, then everything is twice as nice, then the colors begin to shine until really. Especially when the day awakens and the sun slowly distributes the fog in the mountain valleys arise stunning lighting effects in the mountains.
The bright green of the meadows, the many shades of green massifs that grazing cattle as contrast points to the very steep slope meadows and the beautifully landscaped flower arrangements on the balconies of the farmhouse and cottages come with the sunlight especially colorful advantage and shine with the landscape around the bet. Here I fell into the cows. Cows are the most natural mowers. I am talking exclusively pluck grasses and munch. To enable them to deal with all day.
You have it off so a calm that seems probably also go to me of. Can a cow actually accuse anything bad, they are really loyal souls. The farmers can get anything on their cows. "When ma 'says' you stupid cow', then is of a very wrong expression. The Viecha are g'scheid and sensitive".
Here in the Chiemgau the clocks seem to go a little more slowly everywhere. And I start itself to observe something with more inner peace at all and let the country life just affect me.
There are also these incomparable and breathtaking panoramic views, here as the Chiemsee or in the high-mountain reservoirs of Kaprun who my senses intoxicated again.
Even before the village of Ramsau, I'm on the alpine road from Inzell coming on the road, I expect a breathtaking view in a picture book landscape.
A pulsating sense of anticipation fills me with this magnificent view in this colorful mountain valleys.
A very special event is the Since 2013 again regularly held Roßfeldrennen is on the Roßfeldstraße. Already 1925-1928 took place hillclimb with motorcycles and automobiles on the steep trail from Berchtesgaden to Obersalzberg. Even Hans Stuck, father of Hans-Joachim Stuck, already drove with the birth of this route. With the energy crisis came in 1973, provisional end for the hillclimb and thus for one of the largest spectator attractions in Berchtesgaden. The event "International edelweiss Bergpreis Roßfeld Berchtesgaden" was a great success thanks to the excellent organization for everyone involved.
All drivers had to retire on the first day of this event to log and technical control. Only then the driver received the coveted event stickers, and its starting point. But not everyone got this sticker instantly. Very special attention was paid to the light that had to function properly, and there is probably why some. so you had to watch that they get resolved this mishap. The starting point must visibly emblazoned on the car, the excellent geplegte Bugatti T51 driver ^ Heinz Vogl got the number. 2 Was the registration procedure could finally leave in Berchtesgaden's center for general Gaze survived it high. But for the pretty Bugatti went to safety before again at the gas pump.
Tirelessly gave Walter Röhrl, who has again taken on the role of the ambassador, autographs and let endure the countless photo requests left about himself. Even motorsport fans there could not be take your own vehicle from the master to be personally signed.
Even Peter Ramsauer, the patron of the race days, obviously enjoyed the leisurely ride with the Mercedes minibus type 0319 from the 50's. Astonished by the pleasant traveling with this bus he said deeply moved "Those were times throughout modern buses!". The view through the rear window of the old buses disclosed this time travel illusion perfect. And some passenger was amazed about the comfort and the great view from the panoramic windows of sometimes 50 year old classic bus. These old transport have real charm to it but missed badly in today's objectivity.
I had to be able to ride the honor with former racers Eberhard Mahle once the race track on the Roßfeld in his museum Porsche.
A rasntes experience, because with more than 100km / h to drive in the curves that has already impressed me.
The icing on the cake of my trip was this famous cattle drive across the Koenigssee be to the Alpine farmers every year in early May and approximately between mid-September / early October contest. This is one of the tourist highlights in the Berchtesgaden area, because only here the cattle drive takes over the water.
Start of course do anything once the buoyancy in the spring. That is, the whole Alm is revamped. Throughout the winter months (October to May), the hut is orphaned downright. It often creates the sun during the winter months hardly penetrate through the ridge across to Alm. So better to stop at this time on a mountain pasture would certainly quite uncomfortable and lichtkarg. Now some must be prepared for the Almsennerin, it is here, after all, more than 5 consecutive months must cope alone. From May until well into October the cows remain in their care. In addition to own products such as milk and cheese are usually produced directly on the pasture, which many migrant people should not have to also dispense beverages such as beer and soda. Sure, a mountain gentian should not be missed since.
The whole landscape, as here on the Upper Lake, is now spread out gently and surrounded by an amazing stoicism before me. It is in such a moment hard to imagine what's going on as soon as the season opens on May 1.
Today is the 6th of October, the Alpine summer has ended and Small must be brought by the National Park pastures back into the stanchion into the valley. It promises to give Kaiser Weather in Louis-country for the day once again. But now in the early morning, it is 7: 30am, is the fog yet as a down comforter on the lake. It is this typical morning freshness me pulling on the neck and the collar can be pulled close to the top. With boats we go out to the pier "Salet" near the "Saletalm". It is a sublime feeling in this Nature Gallery framed by the Alpine mountains of Berchtesgaden National Park over the Königssee to slide. How trapiert magically everything appears majestically beautiful. The sentence: "Here the world seems still okay" - here he is alive in me. Maybe it's just this particular silence that draws so many people every year to the Koenigssee. We leave the hustle and bustle on land and dive into an imaginary intermediate realm. Gone is that to the famous Echo Wall and the St. Bartholomews Church can I make from here even as a needle-head-sized point. The elements of water, mountains and sky here to introduce yourself to a true symphony for the senses. I would not be averse to believe the Bavarian King Ludwig II. Personally this backdrop has built. From about the famous St. Bartholomew comes the last third of our route. The Pier "Salet" is our goal. It is located exactly at the other end of the Königssee. Since the Koenigssee is not circumvented, the cattle of alpine farmers must be brought to the "Saletalm" with boats here. In the 19th century the cattle were still rowed across the Koenigssee. But more than 100 years it brings the gentle thrust of engines called landaus (transport ships with flat bottom and shallow boarding) in a one-hour drive from the "Salet" promenade to Schoenau am Koenigssee. Around 8-10 cows can on a boat and have similar containers on container vessels, are well distributed over the entire boot space, so it does not tilts to one side. Only reluctantly let the cows move to the boats, and they seem to feel that they have to say Goodbye to the summer.
In this case, there are the cows the peasant family Leitner, which must deny these costly cattle drive from the Fischunkelalm. However, the cattle drive is here not celebrated in the Berchtesgaden farmers with as much pomp as elsewhere. Instead, here the traditional customs are kept high, here the animals and the family are in the foreground.
As our boat invests are already the drovers with their cows approaching. The newborn calves on the pasture are. And they are of course very excited, because the do not yet know this whole procedure. Suddenly I see a young milkmaid completely in their deep thought, the perfect fit with their Dirndl and their physiognomy in my romanticized idea of a Bavarian Almsennerin in this picturesque landscape backdrop.
Like any other driver has driven her the cows from the Fischunkelalm up here for Salet am Koenigssee. They called Christina Frangen and farmer with heart and soul, as she says herself. On the domestic elm farm in the volcanic Eifel, her parents and her sister's family farming together, helps them ever again with out. There is a small dairy farm with its own cheese production. The nature-loving, family farming corresponds to their ideology. is very early in their desire sprouted again as dairy maid to work on a mountain pasture. Especially the simple and genuine life she has particularly irritated. And so I find her an interesting story:
n this year she has fulfilled a childhood dream.
Their parents, who are avid mountain climber, she got to the mountains in the cradle probably love.
For an entire summer on a mountain pasture townspeople might seems romantic and carefree, just like living in a home movie.
However, it is really hard work and not always fun, here waited a tough job to Christina.
Not only the animals want to be fed, no, hordes of tourists craving for food and drink.
So the 24-year old moves from the end of May until October as the milkmaid Fischunkelalm.
The cultivated only in the summer months hut located on the Upper Lake at 620 meters above sea level and is a popular destination of tourists and hikers after a King Maritime,
but also hikers who put in a stopover here and then usually further hike to stony sea.
Immersed in an impressive mountain landscape in the heart of Berchtesgaden National Park, it is here also deposited and lonely.
Above the Fischunkelalm is the Röthbach Waterfall, with 400m it is the highest waterfall in Germany.
The alpine summer starts here when the sun defeating the snow, then it's in the Berchtesgaden area for many milkmaids and Senner high up.
Also Christina is expected in time for the transhumance in Berchtesgaden.
But until the last minute, they also had to tackle vigorously with the domestic court.
Even if your employees for their family is particularly strong missed at harvest time, it was fully behind its decision.
Despite Christina's thoughts in some moments will be with her family, whether that will come clear in the next few months without them?
Early on the Koenigssee, in the far corner of Bavaria, almost on the Austrian border, starts for them a new time. Only a few hours earlier, on the eve of Almauftriebes Christina had the peasant family Leitner from Berchtesgaden, for which they will manage the pasture, met. And of course, a total of 15 cows. It will not be all alone up there, also the mother of the farmer, the 74 year old Cathi will lend a hand. The boat ride across the Koenigssee is for making an intoxicating beautiful moment, for them the first time. Immediately after arriving at the "Salet" it must the cows at bay can hold until the second load is transferred. Before the bull has a little respect, "... The looks already a little angry." His views may not appreciate really. The farmer gives her the advice to always have a stick here to gain the necessary respect so that beef critters know who's the boss. Then it goes to the upper lake and continue on very rough climbing along it during the Fischunkelalm case is continuous in sight. The terrain Pinzgauer, a special breed of cattle, made for the mountains, seem to the beaten paths but to have no problems. "I think I've really picked me here a beautiful paradise. Beautiful can I not imagine." Today, on her first day is still the whole Bavarian extended family here. And tomorrow the Lord Leitner is still with the spot, for incorporation. After the long winter, there is still a lot to be addressed. But after that Christina will be the Austragsbäuerin Cathi alone up here. You will now ask what is a Austragsbäuerin strong>. A Austragsbäuerin is no longer active farmer a farm. She has passed her farmhouse and the farm to the younger generation, so to their children or grandchildren. Most of them still lives on the farm, but in a neighboring house. There is a so-called Generation HIDE, there is held exactly in a Hofübergabeprotokoll whether and how much the current farmers to effluent strong>, a sort of pension within the family, have to pay to the former farmer. Or if maybe everything has been cleared with room and board. Thus, the term "Austragsbäuerin" emerged. That Almsommer for Christiane will not be a relaxing break, she already gets the same on their first day to feel. "Because I have to - abandon is not", she knew from the beginning. It must be explained much, but also show what it understands by agriculture. "If there merely ned of baorisch was..."
In the afternoon, they can finally take a breather with family Leitner. But the very next day, early in the morning at five, when it is still so wonderfully quiet around the Fischunkelalm, it must collect their cows, milk them, the calves to drink, and then drive to the meadows below the Röthbach Waterfall. The water falls here almost vertically downwards. Here the animals until the even. Thereafter, the barn must be cleaned, and before breakfast, the production of cheese and butter is still there. "The most beautiful is the morning calm when cows drive images this impressive landscape and the beautiful sunrises on Watzmann." That's for them have special moments that she dearly loves, "... I'm just with my cows." The farmer is satisfied with it, he sees that she understands her craft. In a landscape that could be designed by a painter, it is at any time: only the animals, then people, that's the law here. After about three hours they can then even think of a breakfast. What was it like having your own food, I asked her. "Have you and Cathi about even eaten your own sandwiches lubricated and flushed down the selbstgemolkenen milk?" No, they are supplied daily by boat from Bauer Leitner with fresh food. So their menu was quite varied. There are also on their pasture a small garden for fresh lettuce. An hour later, at 10 am, come the first tourists. How big the rush will be on a day which is highly dependent on the prevailing weather conditions. Now for Christina "Dirndl-time" is announced. Already on the first opening day, the weather is gorgeous, a lot Wandersleut are traveling. Some days in the season to come up to 800 tourists and hikers from around the world. A hiker experienced much nature here. In the pastures he will be rewarded not only with spectacular views in this pristine natural oasis, here he can also look forward to tasty fresh alpine milk or refresh with a snack and a beer for subsequent hike. In the back of the hut, the breads are served - the front of the "Gatterl" Christina has ran and serve the guests.
Photo collage with pictures of SWR film team that Christina has accompanied on her Alm adventure.
The timetable of Königssee fleet determines their daily use. In warm weather, Christina is strongly demanded behind her Spartan sales counter, serving them almost in the chord.
Time, a little to ratchet with walkers remains as good as ever, which in this mass treatment is simply not possible.
But as soon as the tourists are in the late afternoon away, returns up here again the Almfrieden a look and feel and an indescribable peace.
"I am happy when the afternoon is simply over and peace is restored." Such moments make up for all the stress. At least then, if the weather cooperates.
But it can never leave in the mountains here.
It remains to her after this debilitating management only little leisure to this surrounded her postcard idyll can enjoy, because now is again the dear cattle on the range.
But before the fire has yet to be fueled for cheese production. 2 to 3 hours will it take to break out of the milk in the kettle over an open fire of the so-called Schüsselkas.
Always a Almtag was long and exhausting, which has always everything had to be done by hand. Even 50 years ago there was no electricity or light in Kaser.
Now Christina has but finally fetch the cows because it is dark quickly in the national park. And the cows here are spread up like a wide area. This can take a while.
But mainly the 7 dairy cows are, for each liter of milk is needed. It is the most precious commodity here on the pasture. It counts the cows, after it must still keep an eye out. All their cows have names, and finally it has discovered "Edelweiss". The has settled far upwards. Since 5am Christina is now up to give. Now just make the cheese, the Schüsselkas for tourists. This is a low-fat cheese, a particular specialty in the Berchtesgaden area. For this, the milk is heated in the boiler, mixed with rennet and stir the resulting curd. Then the mass is fished with a big towel out and pressed into a mold. This presses the whey comes out. "The self g'machten Kas, the visit only on the pasture. Supervisor sandwich is' of what guats" I could hear her say a milkmaid now. Now, after more than 13 hours on the legs can also relax Christina times and enjoy this wonderful place. What is life like as a milkmaid on a mountain? The Fischunkelalm is quite large and Christina and Cathi each have their own rooms, which are also very cozy. After a busy day Christina evenings can always sleep very well. Above all, the cow bells that always ring somewhere have their facilitates sleep.
July is a bit depressing, it rains for weeks. At this time, she felt not only the mountains as 4 walls around them, no, the (cloud) ceiling seemed addition to fall on your head. She had not even thought that it could enforce that. Nevertheless, she regretted a single day. Mid-August, then high season on the Fischunkelalm. Hordes of hikers want the delicious bread and something to drink. The stream of visitors did not break off. Especially Asians are very hot on freshly collected cow's milk, although most do not get them. Christina is right in stress, although Cathis husband and grandchildren even help one of these days. But there is also always something to smile - as, for example, a city Mutti her bottle for the baby to Christina presented asking if she could not even briefly put in the microwave the.
Finally comes Christinas last day on the Fischunkelalm. Cooling it has become, the sun is now gone from 13 hours behind the mountains. Despite Almabtrieb the next day everything is as usual. Many hikers, much work. The last few weeks have taken all their strength to complete. before the crucial day when the visitors away and the cows are milked, Christina, the Alm still all to enjoy the evening for the last time in peace. The day today, her last day, early in the morning at 4 o'clock is over the night for them. Now it is finally "ade Almsommer". The cattle drive is ringing simultaneously the seasonal closure of the Fischunkelalm and so are again Bauer Hans Leitner and his driver on the spot. Before the cattle drive but really starts, get every cow still a very special bell around the neck. This custom and the bells are always passed on in the family has always been to the next generation. From her parents Christina got her own bell gift, especially for the big day and their very special, fond grown cow "Wanda".
The older cows instinctively know where to go again and seem to have little pleased. Up to the loading Salet on Königssee the 15 cows to be driven on difficult accessible walkways and trails first again. to keep together the cows costs all some effort. And it is even more difficult to get them to the so-called Landau. And then there are also those unloved press people that the cows do not seem entirely at ease with its many comic apparatuses before the heads. Scary they run away and then have to be captured again tedious. Even Christina runs off and tried in difficult terrain to move the cows in the direction of the pier. But gradually, they create each cow on the boat.
Now only surely come across the Koenigssee. To contact the cows and their Sennerin boating in the midst of this beautiful landscape. The one last time consciously enjoy. The water is crystal clear, near the shore you can see to the bottom, and everything breathes around us in a powerful dark green. It is the last stage - then the Almsommer is managed. Light falls Christina farewell.
Only when each animal has reached the pier "Seelände" healing and again has ground under the hooves, until the Almsommer has passed off successfully. And the famous "Aufkranzen" may begin, the animals are adorned. Since August 24, the Bartholomew Day, is traditionally started with the binding of the "Fuikln". There are the traditional head or king jewelry with each cow is decorated, the Fuikl and Latsch'n Boschn. A Fuikl is the colorful and elaborate of the two headdress variants. Here bent fir and spruce branches are intricately linked to several spherical crowns and consuming countless, handcrafted roses and stars from colored Schaberbandln (wood chips) decorated. For Fuikl up to 60 hours of work can ever be expended. A Latsch'n Boschn a mountain pine branch, comes with far fewer roses and stars and therefore is rather chosen for the hatchlings.
The cattle must for cattle drive but only be festively decorated, if not "Unreim", so no harm is done. If a farmer once a dead calf to be born on the pasture, or is a family member died, then nothing is with decking.
And finally comes the last of the two characters, fed in together with the milkmaid Christina healing the Königsseer Promenade. Humans and animals, all have the Almsommer, thank God, healing survived. Christina is clearly irritated by the many tourists who are waiting spellbound at garnishing critters. The solitude in the mountains has already left formative trains. Even her parents came all from the Eifel and expect them eagerly. Now they can finally warmly into his arms and Christina is slowly aware of the Hills is finally achieved. At this moment the entire hardships and privations of the past months are gone. As is already joy at home, but also the farewell you do a little hurt. Since somewhat melancholy comes on to her. The lot of great and unique experiences of nature with its unpredictable weather events will remain her a beautiful memory. The Sun has the morning fog finally defeated and there is the announced Kaiserwetter with a deep blue sky to light. Now the Fuikl rays on the heads of the cows in the most beautiful colors.
I am proud to lead my flock decorated home. After 4 months the animals are me grown very fond of." Under the impressive peal of big cowbells adopt as festive bells summer, now leave the cows with the dairy maid ahead and the drivers that Seelände by the lake road, the shopping street of Schonau. It's still a whole little further on the road to Leitnerischen Hof. There the animals will spend their winter break.
Thus ends the summer adventure for Christina.
I liked to watch with how much love and respect the farmers treat their cows, petting them lovingly on the forehead. I initially was not noted that a SWR television team sitting next to me in the boat. They accompanied Christina "Almtraum" about four months sporadically, from transhumance in May about the time of the greatest onslaught of tourists traveling to this cattle drive. And it is a 30-minute program for the SWR broadcasting series "human people" emerged.
The stored Cowbells are now even for me as a symbol of the end of a ereignesreichen alpine summer, which is celebrated here in the background due. Because even for me to go now many great impressions over. Once here am Koenigssee the spectacle has gradually dissolves much like the morning mist, flows into me slowly a reality. A few minutes I let this beautiful experience even affect me and see the different mountain around me. would I look each Jennerbahn gondolas behind and imagine what a great glance I probably from up there. In any case there are many opportunities in the natural beauty of the National Park of Berchtesgaden to go and enjoy incredible panoramic views.
On December 24 of each year the beautiful Needs of the 14 Christmas shooting clubs in the Berchtesgaden valley finds from the 5 towns
Schoenau, Koenigssee, Berchtesgaden, Berchtesgaden and Marktschellenberg instead. On time at 15 o'clock are the firearms, firecrackers and hand shank firecrackers,
all shooting clubs loaded and fired according to the following firing sequence:
3 X Shoot all the shooters at the same time, 3 X sequentially each shooter individually, 3 X Quick fires, and again finally 3 X all the same.
Up to 175 Schönauer Christmas shooters in number arrive on the large lawn at Bodnerlehen and equip their handguns. It is thus the Christkind (the Christ Child oba hoin - you say it here so?) Announced also called Christkindlanschießen, and at the same time should thus be expelled even the demons. In any case the wait to the Christkind or Santa Claus is characterized much more entertaining. But especially coming so again all residents together and wish you a Merry Christmas. I as a city man was very fond of this custom and the good mood of all participants.
So it looks from the street, when at 23: 30h starts the Mette Shooting for Christmas Mass on the Hanauer Stone. The announced in earlier times the people on the land, the time, or that it will attend the midnight Christmas Mass time. Again, there are around 100 shooters who have erected around the Protect Kaser on the "Hanauerstoa". After the Christmas Mass in the "Mary beneath stone" (parish Unterstein) give Weisenbläser before the shooter Kaser her serenaded with beautiful Bengal firelight. And after that it will be only the Schönauer shooters who shoot their cannon in a somewhat shortened firing sequence ritual and thus definitively adopted herald the night.