Upper Bavaria I experienced so far only between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Allgäu. In the eastern part of Bavaria I did not manage it yet. I knew this part only from narratives and photos of my grandparents, who traveled the Chiemgau and Berchtesgadener Land in the post-war period, the first time in 1953. Even before the big travel boom started in the mountains, My grandparents traveled with their son, so my father, already this great alpine landscape. Each of them with a 125cc DKW under the butt. Ruhpolding was then thanks to Dr. Carl Degener to one of these striking longing destinations of many summer visitors. Therefore, I wore the idea for a long time, these well-known places like Reit im Winkl, Ruhpolding, Prien am Chiemsee, Bad Reichenhall and of course Berchtesgaden to experience for yourself. But also the Salzburger Land, and of course the city of Salzburg itself, was part of my exploration trip. I am very curious about Salzburg, Mozart's birthplace was also on my exploration list. The house in the Getreidegasse is actually almost automatic, as much as Mozart points out in this attractive city. A bit offset, but almost as an extension of the Getreidegasse you could consider the way to Gstättengasse, which really astonished me with their houses built into the rock of the Mönchsberg. As amazed, I watched the trolleybus drivers maneuver the bus through the narrow archways of the Klausen and Gstätt gate.

While strolling through the historic shopping streets I noticed very pleasant, that the shop windows in the baroque old town streets are not so often decorated with the usual junk. Here you can discover interesting designed displays with very individual products. Over the grain and Judengasse you reach the Residenzplatz. Like the famous Mozartkugel, the Fiaker cars are part of the historic cityscape. Directly in front of the archiepiscopal palace, the old residence, the Fiakers start to all the sights of Salzburg. Their hoofbeats echo through the old streets. The hoofbeats seem ubiquitous, even if you do not have the teams right in front of your eyes. In the chaotic traffic around the old town they are unfortunately very out of place. Or is it perhaps rather the reverse, that the modern locomotive scrap behaves quite miserable in this pretty Baroque town? Of course, a view from above on this cultural city should not be missed either. So I fought my bike up a tough climb on the fortified lane to Hohensalzburg. Once at the top you can cycle quite relaxed to Mönchsberg, because up here you are almost always on the same height. So I enjoy the "Museum of Modern Art" a beautiful view of the old town and fortress. But even the ascent behind the shopping street "Linzer Gasse" to the Capuchin Monastery is well worth the effort Here too I am rewarded with a very beautiful old town panorama. From up here with a direct view of the Staatsbrücke, comfortably with food and drink, you can watch the crazy goings on the streets, that has something. Almost exactly below me, in Steingasse, is also the birthplace of Joseph Mohr. On this side of the Salzach, it is especially nice to sunbathe in the sunshine, and many cafes invite you to take a break.

But even at Christmas time, Salzburg is able to enchant. You do not dive into the enchanting sea of lights on the Salzburg Christmas Market, it seems to sparkle and sparkle everywhere. I walk through various gate entrances, meet again and again historic architectural monuments, and everywhere, Christmas lights shine my way and beguiling Christmas scents blow in my nostrils. Finally, on the Mozartplatz, I come across a small ice skating rink with a diverse audience. People of all ages and different nationalities seem to have a lot of fun doing this. Parents watching their kids skating, next to me I hear Spanish, right next to me English. If you can not get enough of the Christmas atmosphere, then the Christmas market at Schloss Hellbrunn is also recommended. Here you dive deeper into a unique Christmas dream world.

This tradition continues beyond the city of Salzburg. So only a few kilometers north of the Salzach would be to mention also Oberndorf, where the famous "Silent Night Chapel" stands. Here I come back to Joseph Mohr, whose song "Silent Night, Holy Night" had its world premiere in this chapel. In the museum of the same name, next door, there are various specially designed stamps to buy every Christmas, those with a daily updated stamp represent a nice covering. But also the magnificent scenery of the Wolfgangsee in the Salzkammergut, just 30km east of Salzburg, creates a very special charm, especially at Christmas time. Be it the candlelight inspired giant floating peace lantern, which is floating in front of the famous hotel "Im weißen Rößl" in St. Wolfgang, but also on the way to St. Wolfgang is widely visible across the lake. Last but not least, I come to the conclusion that one single day, for the city of Salzburg alone, not enough to capture the pleasant lifestyle of this region. And also for the many other attractions you should plan a little more time. Anyway, it was a lot of fun for me to explore the city and the surrounding country life by bike.

In Chiemgau I discovered a very varied landscape. If I still have the weather, then everything is so nice, then the colors start to shine. Especially when the day awakens and the sun slowly expels the fog from the mountain valleys, there are breathtaking plays of light in the mountains.

The bright green of the meadows, the different shades of gray of the mountains, In addition, the beautifully designed floral arrangements on the balconies of the farmhouses and country houses, everything comes with the sunlight particularly colorful to advantage. And then the grazing cattle on the very steep slope meadows, because I feel seduced immediately in the advertising of bear brand and Milka. In this idyllic home I fell in love with the cows. I see them constantly plucking grasses and herbs and munching, so they can deal with it all day.

They have such a rest away, which seems to be synonymous to me. If you can say something bad to a cow, they are truly loyal souls. Even the farmers do not let anything come to their cows. "If ma says, 'you stupid cow,' that's a very wrong expression. The cattle are g'scheid and sensitive ".

In addition, the clocks here in Chiemgau seem to go a little slower. And so I began to approach and observe everything with a little more inner peace, I let the country life just affect me.

In addition, these incomparable and breathtaking views, here e.g. from the snap chapel at Staudach-Egerndach to the Chiemsee.

A detour to the high mountain reservoirs of Kaprun was a similar intoxicating experience for my senses.

I am on my way to Berchtesgaden. Even before the village of Ramsau, I'm on the road from the direction of Inzell coming, a panorama awaits me to melt away, a look into the picture book landscape of Antenbichl. A pulsating feeling of anticipation fills me with this magnificent view of these picturesque mountain valleys. When I arrived in Ramsau, I did not have to search long for the famous postcard motif. It is the motif with the bridge over the Ramsauer Ache, and with the parish church of St. Sebastian and the rider Alpe in the background. Because said bridge is usually well frequented to serve for a nice souvenir photo. Will my interest in Berchtesgaden be nourished a bit by his history during National Socialism? Maybe that actually plays a subliminal part with it. The Obersalzberg and Kehlsteinhaus are terms that appear in the media again and again. If it turns out, I will certainly explore these places once. But it is primarily the atmosphere of this landscape that I want to absorb. And of course the Königssee with its famous pilgrimage chapel St. Bartholomew which I know from the old photos of my father and grandfather. Throughout the year, people celebrate their customs here. Even as a city dweller you can love these festivities. How to set up the maypole, which is celebrated very differently in many Bavarian regions. Compared to the Chiemgau, the tree in the Berchtesgadener Land remains rather unadorned, so pretty bare. Admiring glances of the pretty girls are always certain to the lads when raising the tree.

An event of a special kind is the regular Roßfeld race on Roßfeldstraße since 2013. Already between 1925 and 1928 mountain races with motorcycles and automobiles took place on the steep route from Berchtesgaden to the Obersalzberg. Even Hans Stuck, the father of Hans-Joachim Stuck, drove to the birth of this route. With the energy crisis 1973 came the provisional end for the mountain race and thus also for one of the largest spectator attractions in Berchtesgaden. The event "International Edelweiss Mountain Award Roßfeld Berchtesgaden" was a great success for all concerned, not least thanks to the excellent organization.

All riders had to go to the first day of this rally for registration and technical control. Only then did the driver receive the coveted event sticker and his start number. But not everyone received their stickers immediately. The organizers paid particular attention to the light, that had to work perfectly, and there it really did not work for some of the vintage cars. The drivers had to watch now that they got this mishap quickly fixed. The start number must be clearly visible on the car, the excellently maintained Bugatti T51 by driver Heinz Vogl received the number 2. If the registration procedure was finally over, it could go high in the center of Berchtesgaden to the general marvel. But before it went on the red carpet, the neat Bugatti rolled for safety's sake to the gas pump.

Walter Röhrl, who has once again assumed the role of ambassador, has been tirelessly signing autographs and allowing the innumerable photo wishes to be serenaded. Even motorsport fans did not miss the opportunity to have their own vehicle signed by the champion personally.

Also Peter Ramsauer, the patron of these race days, visibly enjoyed the leisurely ride on the Mercedes minibus type 0319. About the pleasant travel with this bus, he said very touched, "These were very modern buses!". Even some passengers were amazed by the comfort and the great view from the panoramic windows of this sometimes 50-year-old vintage buses. These old means of transport still have real charm which one misses with today's objectivity. Also, the view through the rear windows of these old buses on the roaring racing cars revealed this time travel illusion perfectly.

I had the honor to travel with the former racing driver Eberhard Mahle once the entire racetrack on the Roßfeld in his Museumsporsche. A fast-paced experience, because driving over 100km / h in the curves that impressed me already.

The icing on the cake of my trip, of course, should be this famous cattle drive across the Königssee, which the alpine farmers compete each year in early May and between mid-September / early October. It is one of the tourist highlights in the Berchtesgadener Land, because only here does the cattle drive over the water.

A refreshing summer night storm over Oberschönau, with the Watzmann massif in the background, led to this natural spectacle. On the right you can see the maypole at Kohlhiasl. After such a refreshing thunderstorm, one perceives the pleasant smells of grasses and herbs.

Of course, the season starts with the buoyancy in spring. That means, the whole Alm must be brought up to scratch. Over the long winter months (October - May), the alpine hut is virtually deserted. During this time, the sun barely manages to reach over the ridges to reach the mountain pastures. To be on an alp during this time would be a bit uncomfortable and light. For the Almsennerin is now a lot of preparation, they will have to deal with at least a good 5 months uninterrupted alone. During this time, the cows remain in their care. In addition to the self-produced products such as milk and cheese, which are usually produced directly on the alp, the many hikers but also on other drinks such as beer and soda do not have to do without. And some hikers like to strengthen themselves with a mountain gentian.

The whole landscape, as here on the Obersee, is now still gently and spread out before me surrounded by a fabulous Stoic peace. At such a moment, it is hard to imagine what is going on here as soon as the season opens on the 1st of May.

The time jump is allowed me. We are now in the 1.Oktoberwoche, the alms summer is over, and the love of the national park Almen again back in the anbindestalls bring into the valley be. It promises to give once again Kaiserwetter in the king Ludwig country for the today's day. But now in the early morning, it is 7.30am, the fog is still like a down comforter over the lake. The morning freshness touches my neck and I pull my jacket collar far up. With boats we drive out to the pier "Salet" near the "Saletalm". It is a sublime feeling in this nature gallery, framed by the alpine mountains of the Berchtesgadener National Park, to glide over the Königssee. As if draped by magic, everything around me seems majestically beautiful. The sentence: "Here the world still seems alright" - here it comes alive for me. On the lake I experience a very special silence. A silence that perhaps also attracts the many tourists to the Königssee every year. I let hectic and noise back to land and plunge into an imaginary intermediate realm. It goes past the well-known echo wall, and also the chapel of St. Bartholomew, I can make out from here already as a pinhead-sized point. The elements water, mountains and sky present themselves here as a true symphony for the senses. I would not be averse to believe that the Bavarian King Ludwig II personally had this backdrop built. Starting at the famous St. Bartholomä, the last third of our route comes. The pier "Salet" is our destination. They are right at the other end of the Königssee. Since the Königssee is not passable, the cattle of the alpine farmers must always be brought by boat. In the 19th century, the cattle were still rowed over the Königssee. But for 100 years already, it brings the gentle thrust of engines to certain Landau (transport ships with flat ground and flat approach) in a one-hour drive from the "Salet" to the promenade to Schönau am Königssee. Approximately 8-10 cows can be transported on a boat and must, similar to containers on the container ships, good over the whole boat area available. Only more people can move on the boats, they also seem to feel that the summer resort now adé say must.

Today, it is the cows of the farmer family Leitner who have to make this elaborate cattle drive from the Fischunkelalm. However, the Almabtrieb is not celebrated here with the Berchtesgadener farmers with as much pomp as elsewhere. Here in the Berchtesgadener Land, the traditional customs are kept high, the animals and the family are in the foreground.

When our boat moored, even the drovers are on their way with their cows. The newborn calves are also present on the mountain pasture. And of course they are very excited because they do not know this whole procedure yet. Suddenly I see a young dairymaid completely immersed in her thoughts, which with her dirndl and her physiognomy in my romanticizing idea of a Bavarian alpine tune just fits perfectly into this picturesque landscape.

Like the other drivers, she also drove the cows from Fischunkelalm to Salet am Königssee. Her name is Christina Frangen and she is a farmer with body and soul, as she says herself. On the local elm farm in the Vulkaneifel, which her parents and her sister's family manage together. helps her out every now and then. It is a small dairy farm with its own cheese production. The nature-loving, peasant agriculture corresponds to their ideology. Very early in her the wish germinated to work as a dairy on a pasture. Above all, the simple and original life has particularly irritated her. And so I learn from her an exciting story: